Upper Dolpo trek

Before we can begin our epic Upper Dolpo Trek, we’ll need to get to the trailhead. This is where our exciting itinerary starts to shine: in addition to enjoying one of the best treks in Nepal, you’ll also get to take multiple scenic internal flights to see more of the country than most tourists manage. We’ll kick things off with a short jaunt from the capital city of Kathmandu to the southwestern city of Nepalgunj. The journey only takes about an hour by air, but make sure to grab a window seat to enjoy spectacular views of the high Himalayas along the way. When we touch down in Nepalgunj, we’ll get checked in at our hotel before spending the rest of the afternoon at our leisure. The city is best known as a center of trade with nearby India, but it also boasts some great local restaurants where you can get a taste of classic Nepali dishes.

Few visitors to Nepal have the opportunity to take even one domestic flight, but this exciting itinerary involves another aerial journey even deeper into Nepal’s heartlands. After a short flight, your plane will descend into a wonderland of dry mountains and deep valleys, where little patches of snow persist throughout the year. You’ve made it to Juphal: the beginning of the Upper Dolpo Trek. After meeting up with our porters and trekking team, we’ll set out for our first day on the trail. This will serve as a fairly gentle introduction to our epic hiking itinerary, starting with a gradual climb above a wooded valley before descending to the Thuli Bheri river, which we’ll follow for about two hours. All along the way, you’ll enjoy splendid views of the massive Dhaulagiri Himal towering above the lower-lying mountains of the Upper Dolpo. When we arrive in Dunai, we’ll get checked in at our teahouse or trekking lodge to enjoy our first night in the Himalayas.

It’s time to enter the expansive Shey Phoksumdo National Park: the largest national park in the entirety of Nepal. This protected mountain reserve is perhaps best known for the beautiful Phoksundo Lake, which we’ll reach in just a few short days. But there’s plenty to appreciate in this wild landscape, especially for nature lovers: endless forests of juniper and birch, herds of blue sheep roaming across precarious mountaintop game trails, and a variety of important monasteries and cultural sites. Today’s stretch of the Upper Dolpo Trek climbs through the wooded wilderness of the park for about six hours, bringing us through pleasant forests where walnut and maple trees provide welcome relief from the Himalayan sun. We’ll stop for the day in the small community of Chhepka, where we’ll choose the best available guesthouse from a handful of traditional stone-built options. This attractive little hamlet is the perfect place to enjoy the ambience of the wild as the sun sinks below the horizon.

Dramatic suspension bridges are a hallmark of trekking in Nepal, and we’ll come across a few great examples of these daring feats of architecture this morning, crossing back and forth over the Phoksumdo Khola river as we ascend through beautiful pine forests. Lush green hillsides are the order of the day, and the sight of thin trails cutting their way across steep ravines is sure to take your breath away. Today’s section of the Upper Dolpo Trek will also introduce us to Jharana: arguably the finest waterfall in the region, and one of the tallest in the country. We’ll stop nearby to take plenty of photographs and enjoy a picnic-style lunch. From here, it’s just a short hike to the village which shares its name with the waterfall. We’ll reach Jharana after about six hours of hiking today, and our comfortable accommodations at the best available trekking lodge will afford us some hard-earned rest after our strenuous hike.

After breakfast in the village of Jharana, we’ll shoulder our backpacks and set out for another day of adventure on the Upper Dolpo Trek. We’ll have a lot of ground to cover today, and most of it involves climbing higher into the mountains. But the alpine views we’ll earn during today’s hike will make our struggles worth the effort: today is the day we’ll first set eyes upon the magnificent Phoksundo Lake. First, we’ll cross another intrepid suspension bridge, pass through a ranger station, and arrive at the sprawling village of Ringmo. This picturesque community is one of the few places in the Himalayas where the Bön, or Bon, religion still thrives. This is an indigenous faith which predates even the Tibetan Buddhism which is so closely associated with these mountains. When we arrive, we’ll get checked in at a local family-owned guesthouse. While it’s also possible to set up tents at the nearby camping grounds, we prefer the chance to contribute more directly to the town’s economy—you’ll also have an unforgettable cultural experience speaking with your friendly hosts.

There’s plenty to do and see around the sparkling blue waters of Phoksundo Lake, and we’ll dedicate the day to exploring this fascinating region to its fullest. Our plan will also have the added benefit of allowing ourselves to acclimate to the high altitude for another day, helping us to avoid altitude sickness and making the rest of our Upper Dolpo Trek more comfortable. The star of today’s show is the sacred lake itself, which you may recognize from the 1999 film Himalaya. We’ll wander along its quiet shorelines, where a belt of evergreen trees runs right down to the water’s edge. As you rest your eyes on the reflection of snowcapped mountains in the water’s still surface, you’ll start to grasp the restorative qualities of this beautiful natural setting. This is something that the local Bön culture has always understood, and a visit to the lakeshore monastery known as Tshowa Gompa will be next on our agenda. Getting acquainted with this unique religion is a rare prospect, even for well-traveled Himalayan trekkers. Make the most of this opportunity before returning to Ringmo to spend a second night.

If you’ve fallen in love with the surreal beauty of Phoksundo Lake, today is sure to rank as one of your favorite experiences on the Upper Dolpo Trek. We’ll earn an entirely new perspective on this magnificent alpine lake as we follow the cliffside trails that rise above its perimeter, trekking all the way to the lake’s opposite shore. From here, we’ll traverse wide-open meadows to access the floodplain of the Phoksumdo Khola River. We’re really off the beaten path now, which means that we’ll have to pitch our tents and enjoy an old-fashioned Himalayan camping experience tonight. But as we set up camp near Sallaghari in a secluded pine grove, your expert trekking team from Alpine Ramble Treks will make sure that you don’t miss out on any of the amenities you’d expect during your hike. And that includes a first-class meal served in a mountain setting of surpassing loveliness.

After having breakfast and breaking down our campsite, we’ll hit the trail and set out north, enjoying a relatively level path for the first hour of today’s hike. Where the Phoksumdo Khola joins with the Tuk Kyaksa Khola, we’ll cross a small wooden bridge and start some serious climbing. Soon we’ll reach another high-altitude pasture, and our trail only gets steeper from here. Before making the ascent, we’ll enjoy a picnic-style lunch in the scenic surroundings of the Upper Dolpo’s pristine mountain highlands. Moving on, it won’t be long before we catch our first glimpse of the mighty mountain pass of Kang La. We’ll climb up and over the pass tomorrow, earning some of the best views in the entirety of the Himalayas. For today, we’ll set up our tents at the Nangdala High Camp, where a large rock slab marks our stopping point for the afternoon. As we enjoy another hot meal in the chilly mountain air, we’ll feast our eyes on some of the finest views in western Nepal.

Our epic trek in the Upper Dolpo continues this morning with another steep climb. We’ll enjoy a hearty breakfast before packing up and setting off, fortifying ourselves for the strenuous ascent ahead. The mountain pass of Kang La sits at a staggering 5,360 meters in elevation: this is higher than many treks in Nepal manage to reach, and we’ll take our time to ascend safely. When we reach the pass, you’ll be rewarded with a stupendous view of the Tibetan plateau, as well the Upper Dolpo’s most impressive mountains: Shey Shikhar, Kang Chunne, and the sacred Crystal Mountain. The Crystal Mountain, or Shey, gets its English name from the thick veins of quartz running through the rock of its face, and the mountain is home to an important local monastery. After enjoying the view, we’ll descend carefully from the pass, following steep trails to cross a river, trek amongst grazing yaks and goats, and arrive at the village of Shey. It may be possible to secure guesthouse accommodations in town tonight; otherwise, we can set up our tents at a lovely campsite just below the monastery.

While we don’t have any hiking to do today, this is where the cultural elements of the Upper Dolpo Trek really shine. More properly known as Shelri Sumdho Gompa, the monastery at Shey is one of the most striking examples of the Bön faith that you’ll find here in the Upper Dolpo. The gompa is believed to be more than 800 years old, and exploring its quiet interiors will afford you with the opportunity to marvel at the carefully preserved work of its master artisans. You may even be lucky enough to chat with a local monk about the monastery’s storied history and remote location. Popular festivals are held here in the summer, drawing visitors and pilgrims from all over the region, and you’re in for quite a treat if your trek in the Upper Dolpo coincides with this season of celebration. But the surroundings of Shey are spectacular at any time of year, owing in large part to the presence of the mighty Crystal Mountain. Circumambulating this mountain is believed to bring great merit. We’ll spend a second night here in Shey after exploring these cultural wonders.

It’s time to pick up the trail of the Upper Dolpo Trek and move on from Shey Gompa. Our path leads east today, passing through a valley in the company of grazing yaks and trekking alongside the banks of the Sephu Khola river. We’ll soon continue into real mountain territory, where the rugged peaks of the Himalaya are piled one atop another. Our goal today is to cut through this wall of summits using the mountain pass of Shey La. The pass is perched at an impressive altitude of approximately 5,000 meters above sea level; as you might expect, the views from here are worth the considerable effort of our climb. The mountain panorama we’ll enjoy from this vantage point stretches all the way to Tibet in one direction and Nepal’s remote Mustang region in another—with an endless field of barren mountains everywhere the eye can reach. After taking some time to catch our breath and savor this spectacular view, we’ll descend from the pass to reach Namgung. After unloading our bags and setting up camp, we’ll visit the local monastery before spending the night here in Namgung.

Today’s section of the Upper Dolpo Trek begins with a short ascent above the waters of the Nagon Khola, leading onto a dramatic trail with stunning views of the region’s characteristically barren mountains. We’ll only be trekking for approximately five hours today, but much of that will be spend climbing down from the heights of the mountains and onto the plateau where Saldang village is located. All told, we’ll lose about 800 meters in altitude over the course of today’s trek, which may come as a welcome relief to our lungs—but our knees will take the brunt of this long descent. When we arrive in Saldang, we’ll be more than ready for a hot meal and a good night’s rest. But you’ll also want to explore this beautiful village: its stone-built homes, red-and-white chortens, and bucolic alpine pastures are a rambler’s delight. If you chat with the locals, you might also learn something about Amchi: an ancient form of Tibetan medicine.

We’ll travel north after breakfast this morning, striking out from Saldang and following the Nagon Khola river as it winds across the highlands of the Upper Dolpo. Our path leads through a few small villages today, and we’ll spy a number of mysterious caves in the cliff faces along our route. We’ll stop for lunch near the confluence of the Nagon Khola and Tora Khola rivers before moving on, crossing a daring suspension bridge and approaching Yangze Gompa. Also known as Yangtsher Gompa, this is reputed to be the oldest monastery in the Dolpo region. Flanked by an impressive array of chortens, this 1,000-year-old gompa makes a powerful argument for the important role that faith and spirituality play in Himalayan culture. We’ll explore the monastery, where we’re likely to be the only visitors. You’ll see some entrancing depictions of important historical and religious figures, such as Guru Rinpoche, or Padmasambhava, as well as Green Tara and the Buddha himself.

For the next part of our Upper Dolpo Trek, we’ll have a few options to consider. One route passes through the communities of Shimengaon and Nishalgaon, but it generally represents a longer and tougher day on the trail. Instead, most treks in the Upper Dolpo follow a shorter route, returning to Saldang before following the river and traveling across terraced fields of barley and wheat in the direction of Sibu. If we choose this second option, we’ll have the added benefit of visiting two more monasteries: Chaiba Gompa and Namdo Monastery. Both monasteries offer excellent insight into the Buddhist and Bön faiths, and the gompa at Namdo is situated within an especially scenic rural village that’s home to about 400 people. This makes a great place to stop for lunch, and we can chat with the locals while enjoying the peaceful village ambience. Moving on, we’ll find ourselves arriving in the community of Sibu after about six or seven total hours on the trail. This traditional village is marked by a collection of mani walls and chortens, and it makes for a great place to pitch our tents and get some hard-earned rest. 

Today represents a comparatively easy section of the Upper Dolpo Trek—which will serve as a short respite before we climb the high-altitude pass of Jeng La tomorrow. We’ll get started after breakfast, setting out on a gentle trail and tracing the course of the Namgung Khola. Our path leads beneath the fragrant boughs of evergreen forests, where pine and juniper trees grow freely in the valleys of the Upper Dolpo. But trekking in Nepal usually involves a steep climb sooner or later—and where the Namgung Khola reaches its confluence, we’ll begin our ascent to Jeng-la Phedi. The ground here is characterized by grass, low-lying scrub, and small, scattered boulders. We’ll arrive at Jeng-la Phedi after about five or six hours on the trail. As we settle in for a hearty meal, we’ll enjoy a good look at the nearby Himalayan mountains—and the Jeng La pass which cuts between them. 

All of the best treks in Nepal offer magnificent alpine views, and today we’ll have the chance to feast our eyes on some of the best in the region. It should take us approximately two hours to reach Jeng La Pass: a thrilling passage between the high mountains of the Upper Dolpo. When we arrive, we’ll be standing at just over 5,000 meters in elevation. From here, we’ll earn breathtaking views of the snow-covered Dhaulagiri (8,167 meters), surrounded by the lower, drier peaks of the Upper Dolpo. Trekkers with a love of photography will be spellbound by the natural contrast between the two—and after taking plenty of photos, we’ll begin the long descent into the Tarap Valley. As we trek amongst terraced fields of cultivation punctuated here and there by chortens decorated with colorful prayer flags, we’ll come across the Tarap Chu river. The name of this glacial river reflects the Tibetan culture of the remote Upper Dolpo region: here, rivers carry the name Chu instead of Khola. We’ll follow the river for about 20 kilometers before arriving at the community of Tokyu, where we’ll hang up our trekking poles and spend the night.

We don’t have too much ground to cover today, so we’ll take the opportunity to enjoy a leisurely breakfast and spend a little extra time in the lovely community of Tokyu. If you didn’t manage to visit it last night, you’ll want to check out Tokyu’s small (but important) monastery. Flanked by mani walls and recently reconstructed chortens, this gompa houses multiple temples inside its unassuming exterior, and its striking depiction of the Maitreya Buddha is a marvel that you won’t want to miss. When it’s time to hit the trail, we’ll descend into a pleasant green valley and hike for about four or five hours to reach the village of Dho Tarap. This community is populated by locals of both Magar and Tibetan ethnicities, and we’ll have the opportunity to learn about their culture as we spend the next two nights here in the best available trekking lodge. For many travelers, these cultural encounters represent the real heart of the Upper Dolpo Trek.

Dho Tarap is one of the most fascinating places in the entire Upper Dolpo, and we’ll take today as an opportunity to get some rest and explore this lively community. You’ve probably already noticed that Buddhism and Bön are practiced side-by-side here, and the village’s stone-built mani walls, weathered chortens, and local monasteries attest to the peaceful integration of these two faiths. There are actually a few different gompas to visit in the vicinity of town, including one monastery which receives few visitors, offering a peaceful place for contemplation and meditation. We’ll also check out the local farms of Dho Tarap, chatting with villagers as they harvest crops of barley, wheat, and potatoes. If you’d rather dedicate your time to getting some rest and relaxation, Dho Tarap also makes for a splendid setting to find a comfortable seat and a read a book while basking in the views of the Upper Dolpo’s mightiest mountains. We’ll spend a second night here in town before moving on in the morning.

While we’re beginning our climb down from the high mountain territories of the region, our trek in the Upper Dolpo is far from over. We’ll descend alongside the Tarap Chu river today, passing through alpine deserts scattered here and there with juniper scrub for about six or seven hours. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife throughout the course of today’s hike: you may be lucky enough to spot herds of blue sheep ranging across the hills, as well as little bands of marmots scurrying along the ground. We’re also likely to encounter the nomadic shepherds of the Upper Dolpo near the confluence of the Tarap Chu and Lang Khola rivers, leading their herds of yak and sheep across broad pastures and meadows. The last stretch of our path is steep and narrow, so we’ll take our time to make the final approach to the community of Serkam. When we arrive, we’ll set up camp or check in at a local trekking lodge, depending on availability and any previous arrangements.

While trekking in Nepal, you have may encountered the term “Nepali flat.” This doesn’t mean that you’re in for an easy day of hiking: instead, it means that your trail may ascend and descend steeply by turns, but that it mostly evens out in the end. And as you’ll soon discover, today’s section of the Upper Dolpo Trek is the perfect representation of that maxim. We’ll get started after breakfast by taking a gentle path alongside the Tarap Chu river, climbing through shaded woodlands. From here, our path alternates descending and ascending. This stretch of our hike also has a reputation for being slippery, thanks to the rocks and stones embedded within the trail itself. Some Upper Dolpo trekking itineraries elect to stop in Khanigaon or Tarakot at this point of the hike, but we tend to favor the pastoral setting of Shahar Tara for tonight’s accommodations. When we arrive, we’ll get settled and enjoy a tasty meal of traditional Nepali cuisine.

As we wind our way back to Dunai, we’re almost ready to close the proverbial loop of our three-week circuit along the Upper Dolpo Trek. We can expect to be on the trail for about five hours today, setting out from Shahar Tara and climbing gradually alongside the Thuli Bheri river. As we approach the more populated regions of the Upper Dolpo once again, we may find ourselves sharing the trail with local donkey caravans laden with goods and supplies and bound for the mountains. As we approach Dunai, the path begins a slow descent. We’ll enjoy pleasant views of wide-open meadows flush with green grass, broad river valleys, and low-lying mountains. When we arrive in Dunai, we’ll be departing from the vast expanses of the Shey Phoksumdo National Park and arriving in familiar territory once again. We’ll select a comfortable teahouse for tonight’s accommodations. 

Our last day of hiking on the Upper Dolpo Trek will see us following the watercourse of the Thuli Bheri river once more. We’ll only be on our feet for about two or three hours, and we’re retracing a route that we followed just a few short weeks ago—but trekking in Nepal is full of surprises, and you never know what you’ll see on the trail. You may encounter a caravan of friendly traders, share your path with yaks and donkeys, or even catch a glimpse of bharal wandering down from the hills. Soon we’ll find ourselves traveling through familiar woodlands on the approach to Dunai, where we’ll stop for the day. Now that we’ve successfully completed the Upper Dolpo Trek, it’s time to celebrate! We’ll enjoy a festive meal with our entire trekking team this afternoon, recounting our accomplishments and enjoying the camaraderie of a job well done.

After our epic adventure trekking in Nepal’s Trans-Himalayan Upper Dolpo region, it’s time to come down from the mountains at last. We’ll have a long day of travel ahead of us today; while our flights are short, we’ll need to get checked in at the local airport and make our connection to Nepalgunj. We’ll have a short layover there before embarking upon the last leg of our journey, returning to the capital city of Kathmandu by air. During these flights, you’ll have the chance to savor one last glimpse of the mighty Himalayan mountains. When we arrive in Kathmandu, we’ll assist you with checking in at your hotel in the tourist district of Thamel. You’ll have some time tonight to shop in the vibrant neighborhood markets, sample some authentic Nepali cuisine in the city’s many fine restaurants, and forge unforgettable memories of Kathmandu’s metropolitan atmosphere.

Our epic Upper Dolpo Trek has come to an end, and it’s time to bid a fond farewell to the rugged Himalayan landscapes and friendly people of Nepal. When it’s time for your departing flight, a member of our team will bring you back to the Tribhuvan International Airport. If you’re spending additional time in Nepal, we can also arrange any number of trekking, sightseeing, and adventure activities for you to enjoy. We thank you for choosing us to arrange your trek in Nepal, and we can’t wait to welcome you back. From now on, you’re a member of the Alpine Ramble Treks family!